New problem, its leans over at the top of the 1-2 shift

[ms8238]

New problem, its leans over at the top of the 1-2 shift

Ok I got a new problem that wasn’t happening with the old trans so I don’t think its carb or fuel???

When I got WOT and I get to the top of 1st [letting the trans chose shift point.]
It leans over at the top of 1st for a sec around 35-3800, shifts then takes back off.
And it only does it on the 1-2 shift or when I use passin gear.

Never does it on the 2-3 shift which happens at about 38-4000.

Totally sucks, stomp it to pass someone and instead of taking off like a topfuel racer like before, it leans over on the power till I let off a sec and let it shift.

You can almost predict it as you can feel it build up to shift and right then it just noses over on power.

Super hella annoying. Dunno what they hell it could be.

[IgnitionMan]

Which trans?

[ms8238]

TH350

the new one

[IgnitionMan]

What kit is in it?

I prefer TransGo, they just seem to work best.

First confirm kick down is set correctly. Remove kick down cable from carb, engine off, open carb all the way open, pull inner cable all the way out. The cable should fit into the carb hole with no adjustment needed, If not, adjust the kick down cable.

I doubt that is the problem, sounds more like the valve body is not letting one gear completely disengage before locking the next in. Trans kits usually address this issue, but stockers are built with a little "into the next gear before completely out of the last", to make shifts smooth and not notchy.

[ms8238]

A new fuel pump and removing an old inline filter before I got a new gas tanked fixed 90% of it. stil a slight hesitation at he top of first or when hittin passin gear...........

[ms8238]

thinking of adding an electric fuel pump in the back to help feed the stocker, it is like 30ft away.

If I open up my carb to adjust the float I void the warranty....

[IgnitionMan]

Float level adjustment in a Q-Jet is kinda tricky if you haven't done one already.

The float is held in place by a D shaped float pin, and the D section has to be curved high enough to make sure the carb top holds it tight in place. So, bending the D section correctly is essential.

The float setting has to be done holding the D pin down into the carb body, replicating the top holding it down, then, also, holding the needle end of the float down so the needle and float are in contact and "stacked up".

Then, you can measure the float to body top measurement.

Once you do one the right way, piece of cake, but the first time, you have to have 20 fingers, and it can be a bit trying.

It also helps to use a level scale with a T stop, so you don't have to guess at looking at the scale. Set the T stop so the bar will sit on the body to top gasket surface, so you don't have to jockey around to see the level on the scale. The type of scale I am referring to is one of those T scales that we all used to carry around in our shirt pockets when we were in High School, just to be cool looking, "Hey, look at me and my scale, I'm now a mechaniciniccinicc".